First find a suitable spot for mount the pyrometer probe. I recommend doing this pre turbo as near to the head as possible. This will give you the most accurate reading. Post turbo temps can vary from 200-400 degrees so it is near impossible to know just when you are getting to hot. The drivers side exhaust manifold is a good location because it is close to the head and will give the most accurate reading. I recommend not drilling a pilot hole as this will keep the shavings from entering the manifold. Drill an 11/32" hole slowly and be ready to pull back as soon as you brake through to avoid getting metal shavings into the manifold.

Using a 1/8" NPT (national pipe thread) tap thread the hole. Use ample grease on the tap to avoid getting metal shavings into manifold.

Install fitting into hole and tighten.

Install probe into fitting and tighten. Slide shrink wrap over wires and connect staggered terminal end of sending unit wires together. Pull shrink wrap over connectors and heat with heat gun or lighter. If using a lighter be very careful not to ignite any grease/oil in area around wires and make sure to move the flame around as to not burn through the shrink wrap.

Find a suitable location to drill a hole in the fire wall to run wires through. ON auto equipped trucks the clutch block off plate makes a very nice locations as it can be replaced if you decided to remove the wires and holes for resale or any other reason. Get a grommet large enough for all wires needing to run through the fire wall. Drill a hole of the appropriate size. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO WIRES OR ANY THING ELSE ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF FIRE WALL THAT MAY BE CUT THROUGH WHEN DRILL BIT BREAKS THROUGH TO OTHER SIDE. Install grommet in hole. Run wires through hole and route up to gauge mount keeping away from all moving parts and sharp edges. Put wire loom over wires where they are on outside of cab to protect them.


There are a couple of ways to install the boost line. First you can T into the MAP sensor line and second you can drill and tap a hole in the intake and install fittings to mount the hose. I chose to drill and install a fitting in the aluminum Y pipe used with my intercooler. For applications with out the intercooler it will be easier to T into the Map line unless you have performed the MAP mod.

Start by deciding where you want to mount the fitting. In my case the Y pipe was the best solution. Remove the Y pipe or what ever you are going to drill the hole into so you don't get metal shavings in your intake. Drill an 11/32" hole and tap with a 1/8" NPT tap. Clean all metal shavings out of part. Put thread sealer on fitting and install into hole.

Install sealing nut and ferrel onto hose. Insert hose into fitting until it seats. Slide ferrel into fitting and screw sealing nut onto fitting. Run boost hose into cab through hole used to run pyrometer wires and up to gauge mount. Cover hose with wire loom to protect it where under hood.

Transmission Temperature

Install the transmission temperature gauge sending unit in the pressure port on the drivers side of transmission near the second oil pan bolt from the front.

Place something under the plug to catch any transmission fluid that may run out of hole. Put thread sealer on the threads of sending unit. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove the plug in pressure port. Remove the plug and quickly install sending unit to minimize ATF loss and tighten. Don't worry it wont come guessing out. It will just seep out.

Attach eyelet or forked connector to end of wire used for transmission temperature sending unit and attach to sending unit.

Route the wire over to the frame rail making sure it doesn't rest on the drive shaft and up along the pyrometer wires and through grommet in fire wall and up to gauge mount.

Put wire loom over wire to protect wire. I ran mine through a portion of factory wire loom along frame rail to save on wire loom and cut down on number of separate wires running along frame. This also gives it a more factory look.


If painting is desired it must be done prior to installing gauges. Start by thoroughly cleaning pod. Use a good plastic cleaner such as Plastic Prep 38353 by SEM. Use an adhesion modifier such as Sand Free 98353 before painting. Follow directions on can for application. Paint the pod using even strokes starting and stopping spray before and after nozzle is aimed at pod. This will help keep splotches from forming and running on pod. Use several light cotes rather than 1 or 2 heavy coats for better coverage and less chance of runs. To paint push pins drill 6 3/16" holes into a piece of cardboard and put push pins in holes just far enough so that they will stand on their own. Do not push pins completely in. This will make it harder to get the pins out without scratching the paint.

Put thread sealer on boost gauge fitting and install adaptor on fitting. If using thread tape put thread tape on adaptor. Install desired color covers on light bulbs. Hold the pod up to the location it will be mounted and install gauges into pod so that they are level.

To minimize number of wires being run connect all wires positive wires together and ground wires together for the gauge lights and the positive wires together and ground wires together for the pyrometer and transmissions temp gauge. Connect the ground wires for the lights with the ground wires for the gauges so you just have one common ground wire going to gauge pod.

Install sealing nut then ferrel on boost hose. Put hose in adaptor on boost gauge until it seats and slide ferrel into adaptor and screw nut onto adaptor and tighten.

Crimp eyelet or fork connector on end of wire being used for transmissions temp gauge and install onto sensor terminal on gauge.

Install pyrometer wires onto back of pyrometer making sure to install the right colors to the right terminal.

Zip tie all wires and hose together in a bundle.

The directions for the pod says the gauges are press fit and don't require the holders that go on the back of the gauge. While the gauges are pretty secure I didn't want them to pop out if I am ever mudding or bajaing the truck so I decided to install the holders anyway. One let of the gauge holders won't fit using the A pillar pod. To remedy this cut one leg off as close to the hole as possible. Round the edge you just cut off.

Install one nut on the inner mounting stud and screw it down so 1/4"-3/8" of threads are showing. This will help keep the holder straight on the gauge. Install holder onto gauge and tighten down with other nut.

I recommend installing bullet or similar connectors on all wires near bottom of pod so if for any reason the pod needs to be removed it can be easily without having to disconnect all the wires from the gauges. Alternate male and female connectors between positive and negative wires to avoid accidently hooking them up backwards. For boos hose use one fitting with male 1/4" NPT threads and 1 with female 1/4" thread hooked together.

Now you have pre wired your gauges and they are ready for installation into the truck.

Remove the stock A pillar trim piece and hold pods up to stock trim piece. Note where gauge mounting brackets hit pod. Cut recesses in stock trim panel for mounting brackets to stick through.

Cut hole at bottom of stock trim panel for wires to run though.

Hold pod tight to stock panel for and drill 3/16" holes to install trim clips. I put 1 behind each pod and two on the front edge between pods so they would all be fairly well hidden. I recommend putting the ones on the front edge over some as when I installed the gauge the door weather stripping wants to push these ones back out.

Drill 11/32" hoes where mounting holes are in stock panel. For a more factory look counter sing the holes so the screws sit flush in the holes.

Run gauge power wires to in cab fuses box from bottom of A pillar. Once all wires are run to pods crimp mating connectors to wires.

Connect all wires. Tuck wires in behind pod and fit pillar pod in place. Once all wires are tucked in and none are pinched or sticking out screw pod in place. I waited until this point to drill the last hole that attaches to trim piece that goes across top of windshield so I know the exact location that the hole needed to be drilled. Remove drivers side kick panel by removing the forward most screw of sill plate and pulling end of kick panel out from under sill plate then pulling trim clip out on side of panel and pulling panel straight back. Run ground wire straight down under kick panel and crimp eyelet or fork terminal to end of wire and attach to factory ground bolt just under hood release. Reinstall kick panel. Install fuse tap on lower terminal of # 10 fuses and attach power wire for gauges lights using female spade connector. Install fuse tap on lower terminal of #17 fuse and attach power wire for pyrometer and trans temp gauge using female spade connector.

Other mounting options